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Selfish Sewing: The Southport Dress

Posted by Betsy Cook on

So I totally had to get on the Southport Train. What is summer without an easy dress that is good for work and play? Now this dress is awesome straight out of the printer. I think I could have made it with only limited petite alterations for the length, but I set myself up:

*I bought my fabric (cotton Ikat from B&J), pre-washed it and lo-and-behold I no longer had enough. Now, it was bit pricey so I was not about to buy another yard just to cover the inches I was missing. 

* I decided to add an elastic tunnel for the waist. The drawstring is good, but I like a bit more flexibility. The elastic idea turned out meh for this fabrication, but I think the elastic tunnel would work good for a lighter weight fabric. 

Here are my petite notes: 

1) Armhole levels are great! This is usually my go to petite alteration, but not for the Southport. 

2) Raised the neckline 1" (maybe I'm a secret nun, but I really do not have enough boobage for a lower cut).

3) Raised the bodice waist seam position about 1". This was actually not planned. It only happened when I decided to add the elastic tunnel and lost length, but the look is still flattering for petites.

4) Reduced the skirt length about 3", only because I did not have enough fabric. Actually, I would have liked it a little longer.

I liked the proportions before my alterations, so if you are petite I think you could be safe without the changes. Just take the neckline into consideration based on your chest situation. 

 Additional Construction Notes:

1) Since I did not have enough length I finished the hem with grosgrain ribbon on the inside hem.

2) I needed a little bit lighter weight fabric for armhole and neckline bias and drawstring. the closest match turned out to be muslin. Yes, muslin. I do not shy away from the basics when they apply. I like to think outside the box. 

Have you made your Southport by True Bias yet?


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6 comments

  • just saw this! love it. what beautiful fabric!

    kelli on
  • Love this, it looks super cute! I used muslin as a binding/contrast recently too. It worked out nicely. I think it gets forgotten due to its most common application, but it’s really a great neutral and there’s always some on hand :)

    Taylor on
  • I love your fabric! Too bad it shrunk but the flip side is this length is very nice on you so no harm, no foul. :-)
    One day, I’ll sew something again. I’m down to my last few hundred boxes to unpack. Hahaha.

    Debbie Cook on
  • I don’t think you are selfish! You just made something beautiful for yourself! Good job!

    d on
  • Haven’t tried it yet but it looks so good on you, it is tempting.

    Carol G on

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