Welcome to the first ever SBCC Sew-along! The Moto Chic Jacket is a worthy opponent, but no worries, I will guide you through the process. If you have used SBCC patterns before you know my attitude towards sewing directions is direct. I am confident that everyone knows that right sides are sewn together and when to back stitch, etc. So, I am going to give you the core stuff (and fun stuff)- what you really need to do to put it together. I will have photos to show what it looks like and I will also have sketches to show some of the details that get a little jumbled in small spaces on a photo. This project is the culmination of a couple of makes of the same jacket, so you may notice a couple of different colors along the way. If you have questions please ask because everyone thinks differently about how things are put together. I am going to summarize in the most thorough way I can think of so we can all have a pretty jacket to wear, m'kay?
For those of you who are saying "Ugh, who needs another sew-a-long", well follow along and learn something new as the sample garments are made in leather, so you can pick up some tips and tricks and hopefully be prepared to take on the challenge yourself. (Directions will also be included for woven fabrics as well).
Moto Chic Sew-Along schedule:
October 4th: supplies needed
October 7th: Choosing your fabric or Leather (including leather weights and yardage to sq ft conversions)
October 11th: Cut your pieces/ Leather tutorial on how to place, mark & cut
October 14th: Assemble the body pieces. Add Shirring for bottom peplum
October 18th: zipper insertion
October 21st: Insert sleeve, finish outer shell
October 25th: Make lining pieces
October 28th: Bagging the lining
October 31st: Finishing Touches
Lets get started with what you will need!
Adhesive Tape or cement:
Traditionally, cement or glue is used to secure seam allowances since you are unable to press open and have it stay put. You can get all sorts of glue from Tandy.
My method of choice is to use adhesive tape. I purchase this from Sil Thread. As I do not read Korean, I don't know the actual name, but it gives you an idea of what to look for at what price. It is double sided ( I have peeled a portion away to demonstrate) and easy to apply (also kinda fun to peel off the back). It also comes in different widths indicated by MM. This is some really sticky stuff, but at least you don't have to deal with glue fumes.
if you are going to be sewing with a thick leather (anything more than 1.2mm thick) I would stick with an industrial machine or one specifically designed for heavy duty work with a walking foot (we all have those, right!?). However, I strongly encourage everyone to work with something much lighter for their first project, something garment weight which you can use your regular sewing machine with (more details on choosing leather to come).
Sewing Machine Accessories:
Leather can stick to the foot and the plate. I recommend getting a Teflon foot which can also be used for some pesky knits that refuse to slide under the foot with each stitch so you will be getting your moneys worth out of this small investment.
Thread: Polyester thread is readily available at your local supply store and is the best bet for durability.
Needles: size 16 or 18
A sharp pair of scissors will work, but if you really get into cutting leather you may want to go with the short knife. This is a good tool if you are cutting a lot of skins because the blade can easily be replaced. But you will need a cutting board underneath to protect surfaces.
- Paper- this is for those tricky pieces that insist on sticking to the machine. Put some paper underneath and stitch through with ease. When you are finished, peel away the paper.
- Binder clips and/or paper clips
- Marking tool of choice
Zack White: http://www.zackwhite.com/
Tandy Leather: http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/home/home.aspx
Coming up: October 7th- choosing your leather