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Moto Chic Jacket Sew-Along: Cutting

Posted by Betsy Cook on

Have you purchased your fabric or leather yet? If you did, hashtag on Instagram #sbccmotochic and tag me so we can see all of the amazing ideas out there. 

If you have your fabric, start cutting away! Perhaps this sounds a bit vague, but fabric widths and characteristics can vary, so I leave it up to your skills to position for optimal usage, ensuring all grain lines are parallel to the selvedge and maximum stretch (if available) is positioned to be across the width of the body (the cross grain) and You can even work ahead and apply your fusible pieces. 

For those who want to work in leather and are scared to cut in, don't worry, we will make it painless. It can be a little nerve wracking to worry about making a mistake. 

Things to keep in mind: 

  • Leather does not have a grainline, so you can place on the skin as needed. 
  • However, some suedes have a nap, so be sure to compare the direction of shading
  • Check for any defects or imperfections as you will want to cut around them. 
  • Skins may not always match as they can come from different dye lots. Inspect each skin and compare so you can determine what pieces will go next to each other that have similar coloring. 

Step 1:

Make a copy of any pieces that require duplicates, taking into consideration left and right side. This includes the center front pieces, which you will want to make 3 of, side front, side panel, center back, bottom skirt, and top sleeve and under sleeve. For the back neck facing, you will want to make sure that the piece is extended and not cut on the fold. The reason for doing this is so you can lay out all of the pieces on the skins and can play around with the placement. 

*always make sure your duplicate is a mirror image/opposite side

Step 2:

Place pattern weights on top of the pattern piece and trace around the shape. You can play around with the marking tool that works best, but sometimes I use a ballpoint pen as it will not be visible since I cut inside the line. Indicate the notches on the outside. Remove the pattern piece then mark on the inside.

 

Step 3:

Once all of your pieces are marked, go ahead and cut in. 

Step 4:

For the pieces that require interfacing/fusible, apply those to the wrong side of the leather. 

 

Coming up: Now the sewing starts- Assemble the body pieces. Add Shirring for bottom peplum


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