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Moto Chic Jacket Sew-Along: Inserting the Sleeve

Posted by Betsy C on

Assemble the Sleeves

With Right sides together, sew the top sleeve to the under sleeve on both sides, matching the notches. Repeat for the opposite sleeve.

Prepping for the Sleeve Setting

As I demonstrated for the previous gathering tutorial, stitch 2 parallel basting rows on the top of the sleeve cap. Make sure you do not back stitch. 

On the right side of the sleeve cap start pulling the top layers of thread to create the gathers. 

Distribute the sleeve cap gathers across the cap, so it is not bunched all in one area. Pull from the opposite side as well, distributing in the same way. 

Distribute the gathers throughout the sleeve cap so there are no tucks. Shape the cap with your fingertips so it has a roundness to the cap. 

You may find that you made the cap too small with this, but then just slide some of the gathers out the opposite direction to make the cap bigger. 

Setting the Sleeve

Align the sleeve notches to the body notches and you can pin and/or baste in place. If you are sewing with leather this becomes a little more tricky to distribute the sleeve fullness. Since you cannot use pins I suggest small binder clips to match to the armholes. Be sure to spend the extra time distributing the fullness evenly as you only have one shot at setting in the sleeve (but no pressure!).

Once both sleeves are sewn in give the sleeve cap a light steam . 
Coming up next: Assemble the lining

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