The lining for the Moto Chic Jacket is not your traditional bagged lining. Instead of enclosing the bottom hem, which is a tricky operation for this style, I have opted for a hanging lining that is finished with a ribbon which can then be tacked to the waistline seam by hand.
I like fancy linings and the inner details, so a ribbon finish to the inside lining is my first thought. However, you can just do a turn back hem to save on supplies.
Bagging for leather
If you are sewing with leather and want a really easy finish go with the raw edge look. Leather is not going to fray or unravel so this is going to be easiest way to finish it off.
Ok, you caught me- I used pins on the sketch for leather even though I mentioned you should not do this. Well, this works a little better visually to get my point across. However, this is where I put the binder and paper clips to work to hold all the layers together like the photo below.
Bagging for Fabric
If you are sewing with fabric then you can use the clean finish method as shown below. If you are using a light weight leather then you can also do this method with careful seam allowance turns and strategic clippings.
Finishing the sleeve
This is a tricky step to try to show. I am going to do my best, but I think I can explain it better through description. If the pictures don't work for you then just forget about them and go back and re-read the text only.
1. Put the jacket on and align the sleeve lining to the body sleeve. This ensures that the lining will not be twisted.
2. At a single position of your choosing, turn the seam allowances for both the lining and sleeve opening up so right sides are together, about 1/2" or 1.2cm. Either pin or clip in place in this on the outside of the sleeve.
3. Reach inside the jacket between the lining and and the outer shell to find the position on the sleeve opening where you pinned.
4. Pull the sleeves out of the jacket so you have a clear path to align the sleeve lining to the outer sleeve lining.
5. Sew all around the sleeve opening.
6. Pull the sleeves right side out and try on again.
7. Arrange the sleeve seam allowance so 1" of outer fabric will be on the inside of the sleeve. Pin to hold and press to make a crisp seam.
8. Go back inside the jacket and pull out the sleeve. Blindstitch the folded hem width of the outer fabric to the sleeve so it does not fall down. You can also just tack at the seam allowances if you are pressed for time.
Coming up next: Finishing Touches
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