Make the sleeve cuff for view B (short sleeve)
13. With right sides together, sew ends of cuffs together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance and press open.
14. Fold in half horizontally with wrong sides together. Iron flat.
15. On wrong side of shirt, align the raw edges of folded cuff with edge of sleeve, starting at underarm seams. Sew all around through all layers with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Press open the seam.
Turn right side out and flip cuff up. Work to align fold as the edge of seam.
*Tip: under stitch the seam allowance of the cuff to ensure that the seam edge will lay flat.
Tip: Add invisible tacking to hold the cuff to the sleeve at the underarm and center of sleeve.
Make the sleeve cuff for long sleeve view
16. On each sleeve match notches together to create a pleat. Fold towards the slit.
Baste in place with ¼” (.6cm) topstitch.
*Note: L2-28W size range has one additional pleat for sleeve opening.
17. Fold one edge of the cuff down 3/8” (1cm) towards the wrong side.
Fold the cuff in half along the notches, with right sides together. Stitch ends closed with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance.(There should be a 3/8” 1cm gap above one end).
Turn right side out.
18. Roll binding edge of sleeve slit, the one next to the pleat, inside.
Position right side of cuff, that is not folded at top, against right side of sleeve. Stitch around entire sleeve opening with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance, to join the cuff to the sleeve. Make sure that folded edge of cuff is loose and not included in the cuff joining seam.
*Tip: sometimes sh@! happens and your sleeve does not match to the cuff perfectly. (This happened for this linen version for me.) Feel free to make the sleeve pleat deeper until sleeve will match to cuff.
19. Push cuff/sleeve seam allowances down into the cuff. Align the open folded edge of the cuff to the cuff seam. Pin or baste in place.
On right side of shirt, edgestitch cuff below the seam through all layers.
Next up on the Harvey Shirt Sew-Along: Making and applying the optional hem facings and constructing the placket.