For View B & C: Hem facings
Keep in mind, these are totally optional. Ok to proceed with regular turnback hem if preferred.
20. With right sides together, sew the front hem facing to the back hem facing with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance.
21. Turn back the top edge of the facing 1/4” (.6cm) towards wrong side and iron flat.
With right sides together, sew the hem facing to the bodyhem with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Press open the seam allowance.
22. Turn facing to inside of garment. On the right side of the garment, stitch next to the folded edge through all layers to secure facing to the body.
Tip: Understitch the bottom edge seam allowance before applying the top edge stitch to make sure hem facing will roll to the inside.
Make the Center Front Placket
23. Fold placket in half so wrong sides are together. Iron flat.
24. Open plackets to position wrong side face up. Fold in the seam allowance ¼” (.6cm) on one side and iron flat. Repeat on opposide side for other placket.
25. On the right side of shirt position placket on top of center front edge, right sides together. Folded edge should be facing away from the center front. Sew to the body with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Repeat for opposite side.
26. Turn the front piece over to wrong side and position folded edge to overlap the placket seam. Pin or baste in place. On right side, edgestitch through all layers.
Once you finish this off, the bottom edge of the placket will be open. If you are only doing a turn back hem, then you will include this in the turn back. But before doing so I would recommend trimming away some of the extra bulkiness.
If you are doing the hem facings, the bottom edge of the placket will need to be pushed in and up to clean finish at the bottom. Carefully tuck it in and then do a neat hand stitch at the bottom edge.
Coming up next: We are making the collar!
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