Whew! Your Rickey Jacket is almost there. Sorry for the delay, but prior to posting I realized I was missing some crucial pics. I basically had to put together a new jacket, but I think with the pictures below you will understand the critical finishing points of assembling the lining.
Let's start with the sleeves:
(38) Push the lining sleeves through the garment sleeves. (It is helpful to try on at this point to ensure the lining sleeves are not twisted.)
(39) Fold a small portion of the lining seam allowance in and a small portion of the outer jacket seam allowance in to sandwich together. Secure with a pin through all layers for only this small section. Repeat for opposite side.
(40) Reach in between the outer jacket and lining, at the open hem. Find the point of the sleeve that was pinned. Pull the sleeve towards you to arrange the seam allowances as shown (right sides are sandwiched together). Stitch all around. Repeat for opposite side.
Pull the sleeve right side out again.
Time to close up the body.
I am going to go a little off course the supplied sewing directions here because this is a tough point and there are a few ways of handling the sewing and I want to give you a thorough walk through:
Let's pick up where we left off with step 35 where the lining is sewn to the body at the collars and center front. This is to show what the bottom edge should look like. The red dot indicates where you should have stopped sewing.
At the seam that joins the side front lining to the center front lining, pull down to match to seam on the outer jacket. Pin in place, continuing all the way to opposite side.
Where the center front lining seam joins to the front facing, open this up about 1" (1.2cm). This is optional, but it makes a nicer finish and reduces a peek through of lining on the outer jacket.
(43) Choose a sleeve and at mid point of the back seam, open it up about 4-5” (12cm). You will use this hole to carefully pull the jacket right side out.
Step 4: Reach in through the hole you made in the sleeve and pull the jacket right side out. Take extra care to make sure all pointy parts are nice and crisp, this includes the bottom center front.
Tip: Be extra patient and calm. Sometimes this step can be disorienting, but it saves lots of hand sewing by not leaving the hem open.
Once the jacket is right side out, make sure all the points are turned to make crisp edges and double check that the facing is not distorting the center front. The bottom front edge should appear as below as a smooth straight edge. It should not pull up where the facing joins the bottom edge.
On inside, the part of the lining that is opened will leave a small tail. Tuck in and arrange so it will look neat and smooth.
Double check that hem facing will be 1" wide (1.2cm). Press again.
Stitch the facing edge closed by hand so all raw edges will be secured inside.
You are probably going to hate me for making you do this, but trust me, if anything went wacky you would not have wanted to spend the time doing the hand stitching below only to have to rip out. So here goes....
....Turn the jacket inside out again. If you are well oriented, you may even find a way to pull out just the hem edge. Try not to undo any of the crisp point edges. Make sure they are not turned completely inside out again.
(42) Turn up the bottom hem that was pressed 1 ½” (3.8cm) (folded edge will become level with the CF facing hem). Blindstitch in place.
Do the same for the sleeve hem. This will prevent the hem from appearing droopy.
Turn the jacket right side out again (this will be then last time, I promise!)
(44) Once the jacket is right side out, sandwich the open edges of the sleeve hole together. Stitch close to the edge through both layers to close the hole.
(45) Give the jacket another pressing, this time including the hem and sleeve hem.
(46) Optional- edgestitch or pickstitch around the jacket center front and collar for a crisp edge.
(47) By hand, do an invisible stitch-in-the-ditch to secure the top collar to the undercollar at the neckline seam. Start on the inside by pushing the needle through to find the undercollar seam. Push the needle through. Make a stitch about 1/4" long and push through to underside again. Repeat this process until you reach the end of the collar seam on the opposite side.
On wearers right, mark both endpoints of buttonhole. Make a buttonhole (or if you're like me, take it to a local pro that has a professional buttonhole machine).
On wearers left, flip the pattern piece over and mark the center of the circle for button position. Sew on the button.
(50) Once jacket is right side out, take your time and press all the edges.
That's it! I hope you enjoyed the sew along and the Rickey Jacket was a success for you. Be sure to share your makes!
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