Welcome to the first day of actual sewing the Rickey Jacket. A couple of disclosures before I go too far. The Rickey Jacket underwent a few different style changes and construction modifications over the few years it took to put together. As a result, I photographed multiple iterations throughout the process. You will find the photos may contain a mash up of different fabrics. Hope this does not prove confusing as I was missing some steps or some steps were better shown on another fabrication, etc. It's only me pulling all this together, and it's a massive project. One other thing- my pattern pieces that I show may look a little bit different than yours as they feature sew lines which were part of my development process.
1) Fold the welt pieces in half, so wrong sides are together.
2) Take the side bodice piece. On the wrong side, draw a line from notch on side seam to notch on princess seam. Cut along this line to split the piece in half.
3) Take one of the welts and place it on the right side of the top side bodice. The folded edge should be facing away from the cut bodice seam. Make sure to check that the grainlines look ok in relation to the body. The welt pieces are designed to follow same grain as the bodice, so there will be no weird stripey angles when the two are sewn together. Sew together with 3/8" (1cm seam allowance).
Repeat the same process for the bottom side bodice and the opposite side top and side bodice.
Turn the welts down/up and iron open, but lightly as you will need to turn them back to sewn direction for the pocket bag step.
4) Make the flaps (optional): With right sides together, sew each pair of flaps together all around, but leave the top open.
You may want to grade the seam allowance, especially closer to the points, to reduce thickness.
Turn the flaps right side out and iron flat. If you choose to add a topstitch to the pocket flap, make sure you add at this point, where it will be much easier to get a nice finish.
5) On the right side of the garment, position the flap on top of the welt on the top bodice piece. Make sure the longest edge of the pocket flap will be facing towards the center front. Leave a 1/2" (1.2cm) gap on each end. Stitch through all layers with 3/8" (1cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.
6) Fold the welt and pocket flap down and iron flat.
7) For all pocket Views:
Start out by marking the dots as indicated on the pattern pieces.
On wrong side of top bodice pieces place top pocket bag over the top bodice welt (same as was done for the flap). Ensure the V notches on the pocket bags are facing towards the jacket center. Stitch to the welt, but do not take same amount of seam allowance. Sew a little less so you do not distort the welt shapes. Start and stop exactly at the dots. Repeat same for bottom pocket bag lining.
Turn the pieces to the right side and double check how the pocket bags will align. The angle should be the same for both the top and bottom pocket bag, matching and the V-notches.
8) Flip over to the wrong side and align the pocket bags. Stitch pocket bags together. Start at the dot and sew to opposite side dot. If you cannot sew all the way to the top, don’t worry as the pocket will be fully closed from later steps.
9) On the right side, baste welt edges together at sides so they are kissing in preparation to join to the center front and side back panels.
When the side back and center front panels are joined to the side panel, it should look something like this:
Voila! You have your faux welt pockets!
In preparation for Part 4 of the Sew Along, please proceed with sewing the following together:
- Center front to side front
- Side front to side back
- side back to center back
- Then join both sides at center back
- Sew front and back shoulder seams together
Then there is one more important step:
12) Fold up the bottom hem edge 1 1/2” (3.8cm) towards the inside of the jacket. Iron the folded edge flat. This step will help to define the jacket hem edge when it is completed. Note: front edge will be 3/8” (1cm) but it is not necesary to iron hem up here as it will be pressed open in later steps.
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