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Rickey Jacket Sew Along Part 4: Making the Shawl Collar View

Posted by Betsy C on


We are going to start with the shawl collar construction view for today's sew along post. 

13)  With preferred marking method/ tool, transfer dots on the front body neckline to the fabric, if you have not done so previously. These are important intersecting points. 

14) With right sides together, sew the front and back shoulder seams together with the front panel on the top. Stop exactly at the dot. Flip over. 

Clip diagonally on the front panel collar/shoulder intersection. Stop exactly at the dot. Do not cut the back panel.

15)  With right sides together, sew the center back collar pieces together and press open the seam. 

(Note that center back seam has a strip of fusible tape. This was to help the center back from stretching for this fabrication. Not required, but something to consider based on fabrication.) 

16) Sew the collar to the back body neckline, with right sides together. Stop exactly at the shoulder seam stitch endpoint. 

*Reminder, this is 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance.

(picture actually shows collar being sewn onto lining, but it's the same process. Geesh, I'm a hot mess with my photos!) 

Note how neckline seam and shoulder seam align at intersection. If they are not aligned you will end up with puckering or a dimple.

17) Prep the facing: Make sure all the dots are clearly marked on the wrong side. 

Sew the lapel dart. Press the dart towards the lapel edge.

Here's what it will look like when turned to the right side. 

18) With right sides together, sew the facings together at the center back neck. and set aside until we are ready to assemble the lining. 

That's it! I know the shawl collar looks kinda tricky, but when you break it down, it can be easy. The important part is to be precise with your sewing. 

Next up, we will go over how to make the notch collar view. 


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  • @ Terri- Yes, that is correct!

    Betsy on
  • So it looks like that the shoulder seam is sewn at 1/2" and the collar is 3/8" but they are made to meet at the dot?

    Terri Seravalli on

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